The Bunker and the open-air history museum of Monte Soratte

A place of historical importance, unique of its kind and deeply evocative. For those who heard the stories of the Second World War straight from their grandparents' own lips, this place not far from Rome carries a great many feelings.

At the entrance to the Museo Storico Diffuso (open-air history museum) of Monte Soratte and of the Nature Reserve we immediately find the word MEMORIA (memory) carved into the concrete, so that the burden of tragedy and pain of that period may never be lost. Memory still today allows us to build ourselves a scale of values, and it is reflected in the choices of our lives.

From the very first steps we come across the great rusty metal doors that close off the entrances to the Bunker's many underground tunnels. We counted a dozen. They are impressive doors with a cross forged on them, as if it were a sign of the cardinal points or a funeral cross.

From the tunnels, through which the wind blows, comes a strong smell of mould. The eeriness lies in smelling something that resembles a cemetery.

The eeriness is greatly heightened by the desolation of the ruined buildings. They are old constructions, the remains of former barracks that after 60 years have been devoured and swallowed up by vegetation.

You try listening, and memory brings you the voices of those young soldiers of the Genio Civile who, full of the vitalist enthusiasm of fascist culture, believed they were building works meant to last for ever. But it isn't so: the youthful enthusiasm has passed, many of those soldiers died defending the cause of the “fatherland”, and the fatherland had to invent the word “Memory” so that they would not be forgotten.

If you listen carefully you can still hear every “yes sir, at your orders”, every “aaaatteeeen-tion!”, the wail of the air-raid sirens.

The concrete crumbles, the structures fall apart, mould and the smell of death fill the tunnels... but the voices still today ask us not to forget.

You can visit the inside of the tunnels thanks to the work of the Associazione Cultura Bunker Soratte: for visits, just check the Opening Calendar with Guided Tours and Events.

For more ideas for trips not far from Rome, see Hikes in Lazio.